Just returned from a great weekend in Joshua Tree – not much personal climbing, but that’s OK. Sometimes it’s not about that.
The Friends of Joshua Tree puts on this cool little event, and Patagonia sent me to teach clinics and do a slide show, ironic as it may seem since the event is named “Climb Smart.” Midway through my show, it struck me that all of my best stories – the ones you naturally tell when giving a show – have very little to do with being smart. For the clinics, though, I tried my best to help and to teach, and I brought my A-game safety-wise, which I can do – after all, I’m the guy who Josh Wharton accused of “AMGA-ing the anchors” on Shingu Charpa. (“Sorry dude,” I remember saying early on the climb, “I’ll make ‘em sketchier and faster” – he was right…)
The coolest things about these events are the passionate beginners. Un-jaded and ego-less, eyes wide open, trying their hardest. Everything new, the opportunities unlimited – it’s the beauty of the beginner’s mind. I love it when people have personal breakthroughs, those “Aha!” moments. Such moments are universal, no? We all have them at our individual levels in our individual pursuits, and someone else usually helps us. Remember some of yours? What have they been?
A young man named Takashi came to the J-Tree event – it was his second time climbing outdoors (his first was at last year’s Climb Smart). He’s polite and quiet, smiles a lot, and has a thick Japanese accent that’s stuck with him since immigrating to the U.S. 12 years ago. And he’s game. I think he took all six clinics over the weekend. Many others skipped out, taking breaks to head for the shade – understandable, as it was unseasonably hot and all of the clinic climbs roasted in the sun. Takashi kept smiling, sweating bullets, and kept climbing. The last clinic of the weekend was a bouldering clinic, put on by an awesome guy named Mike Duncan from Black Diamond. Takashi took Mike’s clinic last year, too, and kept trying a particular boulder problem, but he never got it. This year he tried again, with Mike’s coaching, and then he tried some more. Still, no dice. Hot, sweltering rock, and the end of a big weekend. Late in the day, everyone else had packed-up and left. Takashi, seemingly reserved by nature, thanked Mike for his time and politely retreated. Except Mike would have none of it, insisting that Takashi try again. One more try. And so Takashi smiled, gently nodded his head, and took a big breath. He dipped into his chalk bag, stepped onto the rock, and tried his hardest. “C’mon, Takashi, you can do it,” Mike whispered. Mike cheered as Takashi stuck the crux hold and topped out. As the afternoon sun baked the Joshua Tree landscape, Takashi stood atop the boulder, pumping his fists into the desert air and smiling to the sky.
Thats a touching story and brought emotional waves of universal enlightment into the cosmos of my deepest thoughts. I have totally through, osmosis, cold fusion, and charge disparity, made the corrilation between this post and the relevance of the art of margaritas. Thanks for visions!!!
Taka’s shirt says it all… That dude never gave up. I’m super proud of him. You THE man Taka!
Mike, thank you for encouraged me so many times. That helped a lot!
I have two more boulders to revenge for next time 🙂
I know, I love that shirt! You’re also the man, Mike, for making such a positive impact on him. Rad.
OK, OK, I hear ya JPV, need some margarita posts soon (got some emails on this as well) — but fear not! They shall come. Even if they don’t connect to anything else — I figure margs can stand alone on their own merits. Plus, if you have a few margs, then you’ll definitely see the connection (i.e. you can connect any seemingly random things).
Wow, thanks for the cool article!! It reminded me the moment of that awesome feeling. I was so excited that I couldn’t hold myself from shouting!
Your slide show was so awesome and inspired me. It was not only entertaining, but taught us very important thing about climbing. I was so impressed by your toughness for doing alpine climbing without drinking any water for 48 hours. And it took a month to recover from to your normal condition? It means that people would’ve usually dead in such a severe situation.
It’s all about the mental discipline! The thing I did was literary nothing compare to yours, but I still felt good, haha.
Thank you, Takashi, for the inspiration! Great to see such motivated people.
Took a couple/few months for me to fully recover — probably 3 months until I felt completely normal again, my energy levels back 100%. Really weird, I know. Had some odd health things for a week or so afterward, too, with “bonking” — feeling super hypoglycemic, even dizzy and lightheaded at times — all the time out of nowhere, for example.
It’s interesting how people respond differently. Josh Wharton, my partner on the climb, is younger and stronger, and he had no aftereffects. Yet I’ve talked with many climbers who, after such severe and depleting efforts, have had similar experiences as mine with such lengthy recovery.
Weird, but to me it was certainly worth it.