2 thoughts on “Symphony in Siyeh, Alpinist #27 (feature)

  1. True classic hardcore lines in GNP! The Kanzler-Kennedy, 1979 looks direct and beautiful. Any info on this line? Great article by the way and much respect for your hardman climbing.

    • thanks much! yeah, the Kanzler-Kennedy is the best looking line on the face, IMO. those guys were true hardmen, to do it back then with the equipment they had, and not knowing if it could go — ya can’t overstate the difference, the psychological impact, of being the first one up there. Terry (Kennedy) wrote an article about their ascent, “On the Path of Mad Wolf.” It was in Going to the Sun Magazine (mag about the park), 1980. and there’s also an little info in an old climber’s guidebook to glacier (it’s mostly scrambling, which is probably better and more fun in glacier than technical rock climbing, since the rock is so shitty). i have a digi copy of Terry’s article, and i’d be happy to send it to you.
      in terms of lines, i think a great one would be to do the lower half of our route and the upper half of theirs. in the lower portion of theirs, it’s a lot of really loose, broken terrain that isn’t as steep as the final upper rib. ours had some pretty ok rock (which is the highest complement for any rock on that face, ha) in some parts of the lower half, i think, along with some really bad rock. or maybe the one area of pretty ok rock i’m thinking of was actually higher on our route. i dunno, it sort of blends together in my mind. but to climb some steeper rock on the lower half, then finish with the upper rib of theirs, would be a fine line.
      i think i wrote a little about their line in my article, but i see that the article isn’t coming up very clearly here on my site. i think the pdf embedding tool isn’t working so well. i should try to figure that out and fix it…

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